York
York City Guide
Introduction
Undoubtedly the most beautiful city in the north of England, York is a sprawling medieval labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets and higgledy-piggledy timber-framed houses. Despite the hoards of tourists who swamp the city throughout most of the year, it’s nevertheless an enchanting place to visit, full of old world charm.
Attractions
Around the Minster
The city’s most prominent landmark is the mighty York Minster, a towering Gothic edifice and one of the country’s finest examples of medieval ecclesiastical architecture. The 16th century Rose Window on the south transept is a stunning 17,000 piece stained glass window, created to commemorate the end of the War of the Roses. This beautifully colourful and ornate work of art is surpassed only by the East Window, the largest single piece of medieval stained glass in the world. Climb up the central tower for excellent views of the city, and finish your tour with a visit to the chapter house to see its unusual octagonal walls.
Round the corner from the Minster is the Treasurer’s House, a marvellous example of a 17th century townhouse, which was once home to the Minster’s treasurers. Also of interest in the area is St William’s College, a 15th century half-timbered building that has served many functions over the years. It’s currently owned by the Minster and is used as a visitor centre and conference facility, but in previous times it has been used as a home for priests, a royal mint and a printing press. Some of the rooms are open to the public when they’re not being used, so if you get the chance, pop inside to see the wonderful medieval raftered ceilings.
Another fine example of medieval architecture can be seen in the Merchant Taylors’ Hall, which you’ll find if you follow the city wall south-east from St William’s College. It’s a beamed guild house with a museum on the medieval weaving and tailoring trade.
The Shambles and vicinity
The aptly named Shambles is one of the oldest streets in the city. It’s a narrow, cobbled lane with half-timbered buildings leaning over it on either side as if they’re about to topple. Once lined with butchers’ shops, it was in medieval times somewhat less genteel than the pretty little gift and souvenir shops that stand there today. If you want to continue a shopping tour of the city, turn onto Newgate where there’s a daily market selling fresh produce as well as bric-a-brac. Parliament Street, which runs parallel to the Shambles, is the main shopping street where you’ll find all the major high street chains.
North of the Shambles on Our Lady’s Row, Goodramgate, are the oldest houses in York, dating from 1315. They stand next to the Holy Trinity, a small 15th century church with wonderful box pews.
The Yorkshire Museum and City Art Gallery
In the stunning gardens of the ruined St Mary’s Abbey in the north of the city centre stands the Yorkshire Museum, probably the best museum in York. It’s full of local archaeological exhibits from as far back as the Roman period and it gives an incredible insight into the long and varied history of York.
Adjoining the Museum is the King’s Manor, a large medieval royal residence that’s now part of the University of York. The interior isn’t open to visitors but you can wander freely around the courtyard. On the opposite site of Exhibition Square from the Manor is the City Art Gallery, which houses a large selection of British and northern European paintings and has a good programme of temporary exhibitions.
The city walls
One of the most popular attractions in York is the city wall, which still encompasses a large section of the medieval town. It’s possible to climb up and walk along the enormous fortification for miles. Where it intersects with the main thoroughfares there are marvellous gates or ‘bars’ guarding the entrances to the city. The Monk Bar has a small museum on the notorious King Richard III and at the Mickelgate Bar there’s an exhibition on the history of the walls. A tour of all the gates makes an enjoyable afternoon’s walk – there’s also the Bootham Bar, Walmgate Bar, Victoria Bar and Lendal Bar.
York castle and around
Not much remains of York’s medieval castle other than the impressive Clifford’s Tower, a round fortified keep perched up on a hill. However, there’s a very interesting Castle Museum. As well as military armour and weapons, prisons and dungeons, there’s a wonderful social history section where you can step back in time to the 19th century to experience life in Victorian York, or see what a 1940s kitchen or a 1950s living room would have looked like. There are extensive collections of household items dating back several centuries and some beautiful period costumes.
A bigger crowd puller, though, is the Jorvik Viking Centre, a kitsch and tacky exhibition on the Viking history of York. Aimed at children, the main feature is a ‘pod’ ride around reconstructed scenes of Viking life in the city, complete with sounds and smells, but it’s much less informative and appealing than the Castle Museum. At peak times the queue stretches out the building and round the corner so it’s best to get there early in the day.
While you’re in the area, take a visit to the Merchant Adventurer’s Hall, another medieval guild house with spectacular beamed ceilings. It once played an important role in the social, commercial and religious life of the city and is still used today for gatherings, trade fairs and functions.
National Railway Museum
Whether or not you’re a train enthusiast, this museum is sure to entertain. It’s the largest railway museum in the world and it has an incredible range of exhibits: a replica of Stevenson’s Rocket, the Mallard locomotive – the world’s fastest steam train, Queen Victoria’s private carriage and the Shinkansen Bullet, a sleek and speedy Japanese commuter train. There’s also a miniature railway and playground for children.
Eating Out
Part of the fun of eating out in York is in experiencing the charming creaky, uneven and rustic interiors of the old buildings. 19 Grape Lane, just off Petergate, is a beautiful timbered townhouse with many original features and a restaurant over two floors. It serves modern British dishes cooked and presented in an imaginative manner. The menu is short so you won’t be spoiled for choice but whatever you choose you’ll be sure to love it as it’s always fresh and seasonal. La Piazza on Goodramgate is a bustling Italian restaurant in an old Tudor building with an extensive menu serving all the favourites from pasta to pizza. For light snacks or coffee and cakes in wonderful medieval surroundings, check out the impressive interiors of The Red House on Duncombe Place or the cellars of the Treasurer’s House on Minster Yard.
Nightlife
If you’re looking for authentic traditional English pubs, York is the right place to be. The Golden Fleece on Goodramgate dates back to the early 16th century and with a number of ghostly regulars it’s reported to be the most haunted pub in York. Holding the title of the oldest pub in the city is the Black Swan Inn on Peasholme Green, built in 1417. It’s all you’d expect from an old York building – a hefty solid oak door, low beamed ceilings, flagstone floors, a large fireplace, and walls and windows that slant in all directions. There are regular Thursday night folk sessions, always with a lively atmosphere. Another good traditional pub is the Red Lion on Merchant Gate, which has a great range of local beers and real ales.
York doesn’t have a huge variety of nightclubs but there are one or two good places. The Gallery on Clifford Street and Toff’s on Toft Green are popular haunts among the locals, and Ziggy’s on Mickelgate has themed nights throughout the week, from 70s disco to hard rock.
Listings for events can be found in either What’s On York or YourKmusic.
