Inverness
Inverness City Guide
Introduction
The biggest town in the North of Scotland, Inverness is the gateway to the Highlands. It was granted city status in 2000 to celebrate the new millennium and it combines the best of both worlds – the excitement and entertainment of the city, as well as the opportunity to explore the beautiful Highland wilderness that surrounds it.
Attractions
Inverness Castle
As Inverness was for centuries the site of much conflict between the Highlands and the Lowlands, very little of the old town survives and as a result the city has a very modern feel. Perched on the hill by the banks of the River Ness, the castle in its current incarnation is a mid 19th century neo-gothic building constructed of striking red sandstone. It’s now used as the sheriff court but part of it is open to the public as the Castle Garrison Encounter, an interactive exhibition about the life of a typical 18th century soldier.
Inverness Museum and Art Gallery
The city’s only museum and art gallery is currently being refurbished, but when complete it promises to be an exciting showcase of highland history and heritage, with wonderful collections of Jacobite paraphernalia and local wildlife specimens.
Abertarff House
Dating from 1592, this building is thought to be one of the oldest in Inverness. Built as a townhouse, it has been both a private residence and a commercial property in its lifetime. It’s now owned by the National Trust for Scotland although it’s not currently open to the public.
St Andrews Episcopal Cathedral
Situated on the banks of the River Ness, St Andrew’s is a small but very beautiful cathedral. The two cropped spires stand as a permanent reminder of the lack of funds which ground the construction work to a halt. Inside there’s a an unusual and interesting octagon-shaped chapterhouse.
Kiltmaker Centre
Hector Russell is one of the biggest names in kiltmaking so where better to find out how it’s done than at the Kiltmaker Visitor Centre upstairs at the Hector Russell factory shop. You’ll find out all about the history of tartan and there are even demonstrations of kiltmaking in action.
Old High Church
At the junction of Church Street and Friar’s Lane is the Old High Church, a building of great historic significance. It was originally built in the late 12th century and although it has been adapted and rebuilt several times, it still has many medieval features such as the 14th century tower. Surviving Jacobite soldiers were incarcerated here after the Battle of Culloden before being executed by firing squad in the adjoining graveyard, evidence of which can still be seen in the bullet holes that have dented some of the headstones.
Culloden Moor
The bleak and windswept moor of Culloden, a few miles of Inverness, marks a turning point in the history of Scotland. It’s the site of the last battle to take place on the British mainland. On 16 April 1746, Jacobite hopes of restoring the exiled Stuart monarchy to the throne were quashed as the Government forces led by the Duke of Cumberland defeated Bonnie Prince Charlie’s army in under an hour on this barren moor. Many of the drastic measures put in place after the battle signalled the end of the traditional Highland way of life. There’s a captivating exhibition in the visitor centre outlining the history of the Jacobite Rebellion and its culmination at the battle of Culloden, and the National Trust for Scotland has attempted to recreate the battlefield as it would have looked on that fateful day.
Loch Ness and the Great Glen
Inverness stands at the tip of the Great Glen, a series of lochs connected by the Caledonian Canal which leads to Fort William in the south west Highlands. The most famous of these lochs is of course Loch Ness, where the legendary Loch Ness monster (affectionately known as ‘Nessie’) lurks in its deep and dark waters. Nessie-hunting boat trips can be arranged from Inverness. Even if you don’t catch a glimpse of the fabled beast, you’ll be awe-struck by the spectacular scenery – the shimmering dark waters of the loch and the mountains rising all around it, made even more romantic and enchanting by the presence of the ruined Castle Urquhart on the west shore about half way down the loch. Owned by the National Trust for Scotland, Castle Urquhart has an excellent visitor centre and the extensive ruins, which can be freely explored, give an incredible impression of the former glory of this strategic Highland fortress.
Eating Out
With such an abundance of wonderful fresh produce from the surrounding Highland hills and glens, eating out in Inverness is a real treat. The Mustard Seed on Fraser Street offers the best of the Highland larder, from salmon and trout to steak and venison. Opened in 2001, the restaurant has quickly established itself as one of the best in the whole of the Highland region and it has won awards for its high quality cuisine.
Riva on Ness Walk is a bustling and lively modern Italian style bistro with excellent fresh pasta dishes and pizzas. On the opposite bank of the river on Bank Street is the River Café and Restaurant, where the emphasis is on healthy, wholefood fayre. Whether you fancy afternoon coffee and cake or an informal evening meal, it has a good range of tempting and tasty offerings.
Nightlife
If you’re looking for thumping, night-long entertainment, you’re unlikely to find it in Inverness, a small city with a population of just 50,000. It feels more like a large town than a city, which makes it all the more warm and welcoming. The pubs and bars are full of friendly local charm. There are some good pubs at the end of Academy Street, such as the Phoenix and the Blackfriars, which holds regular live music events including ceilidhs (traditional Scottish dancing, guaranteed to get everyone up on the dance floor!). There’s another cluster of pubs around Bridge and Bank streets, including the lively Johnny Foxes and Gellions. The main nightclub in the town is G’s on Castle Street, which plays mainstream dance and house music and attracts a young crowd.
