Durham
Durham City Guide
Introduction
Durham is a well-to-do north-east city with a genteel, country town air. Its university is an important seat of learning and it attracts students from all over the world.
Attractions
Durham Cathedral
Durham Cathedral, in its spectacular setting atop a wooded hill on a bend in the River Wear, dominates the city’s skyline. It’s a stunning example of Norman architecture, one of the finest cathedrals of its kind in Europe. It was built in the 11th century over a 40-year period and most of the original craftsmanship on the exterior still remains. Inside however, many aspects of the original interior were destroyed during the Reformation and many of the current furnishings date from the 16th century. The cathedral saw several other turbulent periods in its history. During the Civil War of the 17th century, Cromwell closed it and used it to incarcerate thousands of Scottish prisoners. Illustrated guides are available inside the cathedral, and there’s also an interesting audio-visual display on St Cuthbert, whose shrine is held in the cathedral.
Durham Castle
Durham Castle lies directly opposite the Cathedral on Palace Green. It’s a Grade I listed building and it’s an important historical landmark in the city, but it has been renovated and updated several times over the centuries and there are few original features now left. Once the home of the Bishops of Durham, today it’s occupied by the University and the keep is used as a hall of residence for students. The castle can be visited on a guided tour lasting approximately 45 minutes, the highlights of which are the medieval kitchen and the Great Hall with its minstrel gallery. There are tours on most days during term time, and every day during holidays.
Market Place
The Market Place is the hub of the old town, on which stand St Nicholas’ Church, the Guild Hall, Town Hall and Market Hall. Despite their medieval origins, most parts of these buildings have been extensively adapted and date mainly from the Victorian period. The Market Hall is still home to a bustling covered market, which takes place daily and sells a whole host of fresh produce, groceries and other household goods.
Heading off the Market Place towards the river, you’ll come across the Elvet Bridge, a beautiful 12th century bridge that was once the main thoroughfare into the town. Its width was doubled in the 19th century and it has been extensively renovated, but one of the 13th century chapels built at either end of it still remains.
Durham Heritage Centre
Just off the Kingsgate Bridge a little further down the River Wear is the Durham Heritage Centre, housed in the church of St Mary-le-Bow. It’s the city’s only history museum and it provides a good overview of Durham throughout the ages, from its past industries to the social and religious life of the local people. There’s also a brass-rubbing room, which is popular with children.
Durham Light Infantry Museum
It’s a bit of a trek out of town, but the Durham Light Infantry Museum in the north of the city gives an interesting glimpse into life in this historic local regiment. It has over 3,000 medals dating back to the Napoleonic Wars. Adjoining the museum is an art gallery, which hosts a number of temporary exhibitions, concerts and lectures. Find out what’s on while you’re in town at the tourist information centre on Market Place.
Durham Botanic Gardens
On the opposite side of the city near the outlying University college buildings is the 18-acre Botanic Gardens. There’s a visitor centre, pond garden, cactus collection, tropical zone, bamboo grove and expansive woodland. The exotic insect collection is a hit among children – with tarantulas, scorpions and other scary creepy crawlies. There’s also an informative science trail, which takes about an hour to walk around.
Out of Town
County Durham has a lot to offer tourists, so if you’re in Durham for a few days you might want to take some day trips to see some of the sights.
Beamish Museum
Beamish Open Air Museum opened in the 1970s as a heritage centre to keep alive some of the traditional industries of the area such as coal mining and the railways. Guides in historic costume walk around the recreated streets and the whole experience is like going back in time. Many of them have first-hand experience of working in mines or on steam trains, making it all the more authentic. There’s a colliery, a town high street, a farm and a train station. It’s only 10 miles north of Durham so it’s very handy for a day trip from the city.
Castles around Durham
Auckland Castle in Bishop Auckland, 15 miles south west of Durham, was the country residence of the Bishops of Durham for centuries and is now their official home. It’s open to visitors and it’s a fascinating building. Other notable buildings in the area include Barnard Castle, a ruined cliff-top fortress in a lovely medieval town, and Raby Castle, a privately-owned 14th century residence with a spectacular Victorian interior.
Eating Out
The town is dominated by its student population, so there’s no shortage of inexpensive places for eating and drinking. The best place to find a good restaurant is around the Market Place. Bimbi’s on Market Place is a fantastic traditional fish and chips restaurant, while Alexander’s at St Nicholas Cottages just off the square serves rather more upmarket British dishes. There are a couple of good Italian restaurants on Elvet Bridge – Emilio’s and De Medici’s. Shaheen’s on North Bailey is a long-established curry house with a good reputation locally, while Oldfields on Claypath is a stylish modern venue with a cocktail lounge and contemporary restaurant. For top-notch student fayre, head up to the Almshouses on Palace Green by the Cathedral, which serves lunches and light meals the early evening.
Nightlife
The Swan and Three Cygnets at the end of Elvet Bridge has a lovely riverside beer garden. Other good traditional bars are the Dun Cow on Old Elvet, the Court Inn on Court Lane and the Market Tavern on Market Place. Popular haunts among students, which are always guaranteed to have a lively atmosphere during term-time, are the trendy Hide Café on Saddler Street, Chase coffee lounge/bar on Elvet Bridge, Klute nightclub on Elvet Bridge and the Loft and Studio nightclubs, both on North Street.
