Brighton
Brighton City Guide
Introduction
It’s hard to believe it now, but the buzzing seaside resort of Brighton was until the late 18th century a sleepy little fishing village. However, once it became a favourite retreat of the Prince Regent (the future George IV), it became overnight one of the most fashionable places in the country to take a holiday.
Situated on the south coast of England, Brighton’s close proximity to London has always ensured a high number of visitors. The whole town is geared towards pleasure, so there’s never a dull moment.
Attractions
The Royal Pavilion
The iconic image of Brighton is the exotic shining white, Eastern-inspired, turreted splendour of the Royal Pavilion. While the exterior is reminiscent of an Indian palace, inside the rooms are adorned with Chinese style dragons, bamboo and oriental lilies. It was built in the early 19th century as a seaside residence for the Prince Regent and is now used as a public building. It’s open to visitors and various self-guided audio tours are available, some focusing on the building in general and others exploring the exuberant lifestyle of George IV and Regency fashion.
The Dome
A short walk through the gardens of the pavilion leads to the Dome, an events venue with three function rooms under the one roof – the Pavilon Theatre, Concert Hall and Corn Exchange. Built in the Regency period, it was once the stable for the Royal Pavilion estate. Today it’s a Grade 1 listed building and holds a variety of world-class musical performances, plays, conferences and fairs.
Brighton Museum and Art Gallery
Next door, also in the Royal Pavilion estate, is the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery. It’s a wonderful collection of well displayed objects including 20th century applied art, pottery and textiles, and there are two interesting sections on the history of Brighton and images of Brighton throughout the ages.
The Lanes
The heart of the old fishing village lies in an area that’s known as the Lanes between the Pavilion estate and the seafront. It’s a charming labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways lined with interesting shops, bars, restaurants and cafes. The area is mostly pedestrianised, so there’s always a relaxed atmosphere.
Piers
Brighton currently has two piers, the West Pier and Brighton Pier (also known as the Palace Pier). Both were built in the late 19th century to entertain the hoards of day trippers and visitors from London and the south east.
Brighton Pier is British seaside tackiness at its best (or worst, depending on your perspective!). Everything you’d expect is there – from arcades, stalls and fairground rides to cafes, bars and takeaways.
The West Pier, on the other hand, now looks rather forlorn and has been closed to the public since 1975. It’s a Grade 1 listed building and efforts have been made to save it, but there is currently no funding and although it has been battered by the elements, it still has an enduring charm.
Between the two piers is the wonderful National Museum of Penny Slot Machines, which houses a large collection of vintage penny arcades such as peep show machines, fortune tellers and strength testers.
Regency Townhouse
In Brighton’s adjoining town of Hove, there’s a splendid example of a typical townhouse from the decadent Regency period. It’s another of the town’s splendid Grade I listed buildings. Although it’s currently under renovation to restore it to its original layout, visits by guided tour may still be booked and it provides a fascinating glimpse into the lavish lifestyles of the rich and famous in this fashionable 18th century seaside resort.
Chattri Indian War Memorial
In the Patcham area of Brighton stands an unusual and interesting war memorial, built to commemorate the Sikh and Hindu soldiers who died fighting for Britain in the First World War, many of whom were treated at hospitals in Brighton. It sits prominently on a high hill and offers beautiful views of the surrounding area.
Preston Manor
Just a couple of miles north of Brighton stands a beautiful old country manor with a long history. It was originally built in the 13th century, but most of the building that remains today dates from the mid 18th century to the turn of the 20th century. The Edwardian interiors of the 20 or so rooms open to the public are magnificent, from servants’ quarters, kitchens and pantries to drawing rooms, bedchambers and a children’s nursery.
Eating Out
Brighton’s raison d’être is to entertain, so there’s no shortage of good places for eating out. In fact, it has the most restaurants per head of population in the entire south east outside London. Some of the most upmarket restaurants can be found in the Lanes area and in neighbouring Hove.
For an intimate meal, there’s nowhere more romantic than the candlelit cottage restaurant Il Bistro on Market Street in the Lanes. The menu is French and Italian inspired and the wine list is divine. Piccolo on Ship Street, in the southern end of the Lanes, also serves high-quality Italian food, while D’arcy’s back on Market Street is one of the best seafood restaurants in the city, appropriately housed in an old fisherman’s cottage..
Some of the best British and European restaurants are the exciting and sophisticated new Saucy British Restaurant on Church Road, which has taken Brighton by storm, the Gingerman on Norfolk Square, a fine hotel restaurant, and Fruit de Mer on Waterloo Street.
Nightlife
The nightlife in Brighton is about as lively and exciting as you can get. The range of bars and clubs is overwhelming, and there’s a thriving gay scene which is focused particularly around the Kemptown area.
As well as ultra-modern style bars and pre-club venues, there are plenty of good traditional pubs such as The Albert on Trafalgar Street, The Druid’s Head on Brighton Place, The Greys on Southover Street and the Cricketers on Black Lion Street, the oldest pub in the city.
For clubbing check out The Tavern on Castle Square, Volks Tavern on Madeira Drive and the funky Cuba at King’s Road Arches. Good gay clubs include Revenge on Old Steine and Legends on Marine Parade.
Of course there are so many good bars, pubs and clubs that only a few can be listed here, but for a good guide to the best places to go while you’re in town, as well as what’s on, check out This is Brighton and Insight listings magazines, both of which are free.
